It's always prime-time at Peter Luger, the more sedate offspring of Brooklyn's revered and rakish original. While the two differ in mood, they share a profound devotion to great red meat. This palace of porterhouse is vaguely Teutonic in style. You could come here for chicken or corned beef hash. But the main event is the extraordinary porterhouse, for two or more. Fibrous, mineral-sweet beef, crusty and tender. The steak for one is an excellent bone-in sirloin.

Appetizers are pro forma: shrimp cocktail, tomatoes and onions, the rest. Side dishes are familiar, with creamed spinach and fried potatoes and onions the mandatory choices. Cheesecake to finish. But concentrate on your entree. You'll search a very long time to find a better steak between the East River and the lighthouse.